earth and fruited sweetness, chai spice, dried apricot, banana, freeze dried berry, cocoa powder, sandalwood oil, chicory root, cooked rhubarb..as complex as they come!
Matari is one of the few coffees from the growing regions surrounding the high-altitudes of Sana’a that was traditionally kept separate. All others were mixed to form “Sana’ani coffee” with decidedly mixed outcomes. But coffee in Bani Matari is a bit different, tall old-growth trees that appear like a fruit orchard than a typical coffee farm (well, NO coffee production in Yemen looks like a coffee farm anywhere else!).
This lot was secured through Fatoum Muslot, who took over the family coffee business started by her father back in the 1950s. They’ve long exported Yemeni coffee, and since Fatoum has started managing the group, she has worked to implement practices such as more stringent hand sorting and using Ecotact storage bags in order to directly affect their coffee’s overall quality.
We’re quite pleased with the physical condition of both coffees we bought from Fatoum this year, the lack of underripe coffee and shipping in Ecotact liners has really benefitted the resulting cup quality. During their long history in the coffee trade they’ve forged longstanding connections with farming groups in several growing regions, and because of these connections, are able to buy coffee in a more direct way. This lot is made up of coffee from roughly 100 farmers in Bani Matari, who on average have 1000 trees planted on less than 1/2 hectare of land. Altitude is extremely high, starting around 2000 meters and stretching upwards of 2400 meters above sea level.
The dry fragrance produces smells of dried banana, cinnamon and sugar, nut brittle, sandalwood and leather. The wet aromatics go from wood-spice incense to brown bread, as well as a scent of stewed stone fruits. Matari shape-shifts across roast levels and as the coffee temperature comes down a bit. This coffee is rustic for sure all along the roast spectrum. Bittersweet, and earth toned, the flavor profiles bring to mind the sweet aroma of leather, with spices overhead like sandalwood oil, chai spice tea, and chicory root. The coffee also reveals a delicious fruited side, with glimpses of natural dried apricot, freeze-dried berry, as well as an interesting cooked rhubarb note (even a bit on the ‘tart’ side).
- Origin: Yemen
- Region: Bani Matari
- Producer: Fatoum Muslot
- Altitude: 2000-2400m
- Cultivar: Heirloom Cultivars
- Processing: Natural
- Sourcing: Sweet Maria’s